Useful: rubber bands, kitchen roll, mod podge / PVA glue, baby wipes, Dam Tape!
Instructions (see below for basic images)
Make a mould using tape and plastic – search YouTube for mallee burr resin pendants and you’ll find loads of useful guides on how to do this – or use a deep silicone mould that will hold the burr.
Make sure your burr is free of dust by brushing it lightly and gently – use a toothbrush.
Seal the burr with a thin layer of resin or with modpodge/PVA glue and let it dry.
Mix up resin and hardener according to the instructions for the particular resin you are using. For Resin8 Slowcure crystal clear epoxy casting resin this would be 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener (e.g. 30ml resin and 15ml hardener).
Add any colour you like (in this example we used Turquoise Transparent Pigment). For a 45ml mix of resin you will need less than a sesame seed sized amount of pigment – the colours are super strong!
Pour the resin into the mould, making sure to keep the mould level. Remove any bubbles using a heat gun (if you’re using Slowcure Epoxy you shouldn’t get many bubbles).
Leave to cure for at least 48 hours.
Carefully remove the burr casting from the mould. Remove any sticky tape residue with a baby wipe.
Decide on the shape of the pendant you want and draw it on the burr casting using pencil.
Clamp the piece still (using a jewellery vice or similar) and use a small hand saw to cut it to shape. Wear a respirator at this stage as resin dust is bad for your lungs.
Once the shape is cut, polish it using different grades of wet and dry abrasive paper. Use it wet and it will minimise resin dust. We suggest starting off with a rough paper such as 80 grit and then sanding through 180, 240, 400, 1200, 2000 and finishing with 2500.
Let the piece dry completely.
If the burr casting is not completely shiny you can polish it with danish oil, add another thin layer of resin or use resin polish (COMING SOON!).
Petri Art combines resin with alcohol inks to create three dimensional splashes of colour with unpredictable results.
It’s not essential to use the Pinãta alcohol inks, but we much prefer them due to the richness of their colour and superior lightfast qualities. Make sure you include the Blanco Blanco white to get the proper petri effects.
These fabulous coasters are so simple yet stunning that you’ll want to make lots in different colours!
Instructions (see below for images)
Mix up 15ml of Resin8 Heat Resistant Resin as per the instructions (10ml resin and 5 ml hardener) and pour it into your mould. You can use a heat gun to get rid of bubbles. Allow this clear layer to at least partially if not fully cure. This can take up to 24 hours but you’ll probably find it is ready in 12 hours (especially if you keep it in a warm place and warm the resin first). Having a clear layer of this special resin on what will be the top of your coaster will ensure it’s properly protected against the heat of a hot coffee or hot chocolate!
When the resin has partially or fully cured, mix up 30ml of the same resin (20ml resin and 10ml hardener) and fill your mould to the top. You can give it a gentle blast with a heat gun if bubbles appear. Give the bottle of Pinãta Blanco Blanco (white) alcohol ink a good shake before adding a few drops randomly into the mould.
Quickly add a drop of Calabaza Orange ink inside each white blob.
Add another drop of Blanco Blanco to the inside of each blob.
Add a drop of Señorita Magenta (pink) to each blob.
Give the Rich Gold bottle a good shake before adding a drop to each blob. You will see the gold fizzle and then appear solid on the top.
Be careful not to add too much alcohol ink as it will affect the resin cure and could mean your coaster doesn’t set properly!
Leave the coaster to cure somewhere flat, warm and dust-free.
After 24 hours, carefully remove your coaster from the mould. It will take a further seven days for your coaster to be fully heat resistant.
Who doesn’t love a fabric and resin bangle?! We’ve all been there – the resin soaks into the fabric, it warps, distorts and even bleeds colour into the lovely clear resin. Well no more…!!!
Simply cover both sides of the fabric with PVA glue or Mod Podge, leave it to dry and hey presto – you can now cut the fabric easily – it won’t fray, warp or distort AND it won’t bleed colour into the resin!
We like to add a layer of doming resin to the back of castings, so that they are smooth to wear against the skin. When doing this, it’s important to make sure that the casting is level before you add doming resin.
A handy tip is to use a mini spirit level (as you can see this one was from the RNLI, but we’re sure you can find them on ebay or etsy). This way the casting will have a level back, and look super professional!
If you have a curing cabinet do not use it if your resin creations have paper in them. As paper contains air, the action of heating the piece of jewellery up means that the air is released into the resin in the form of bubbles. OH NO!
Instead, pass a flame quickly over the piece before leaving it to cure overnight in a warm, dust-free environment.