FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

For basic instructions on how to use resin, health & safety sheets and top tips please click here. We have put this list of frequently asked questions together to help you while working with resin. 
 
General Resin FAQs Setting and Curing 
Weighing and Measuring Casting Resin Into Moulds
Embedding, Soldering, Gluing Health and Safety
Cleaning and Care of Resin Jewellery Resin Art FAQs
 

GENERAL RESIN QUESTIONS  
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SETTING AND CURING RESIN
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WEIGHING AND MEASURING
  • Do I really need digital scales?
  • If you are using Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin, Resin8 Slowcure Epoxy and TotalCast, pour into graduated measuring cups (i.e. measure in MILILITRES). You may prefer to use scales. This is fine but please note that the measurements will not be the same. For example, Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy is 1:1 by volume by 1:0.9 by weight!

  • Why aren't my digital scales working?
  • Are the batteries flat? Also they work best on a level and steady surface.

  • When I use the digital scales, why do they turn themselves off after a while?
  • They will turn themselves off, if you are working slowly as they have a battery saving mechanism. Try measuring out faster or gently tap the weighing plate to 'wake up' the scales.

  • My cup weighs 10g and then I have to add resin - how can I make this easier?
  • Put the empty cup on the scales and then press TARE - this will take the weight back down to 0 and allow you to add the correct amount of resin/hardener.

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CASTING RESIN INTO MOULDS
  • Can I use Siligum to make moulds for resin?
  • Our resins are brilliant in silicone moulds buts not very good in Siligum moulds. We use a liquid silicone material to make moulds not a silicone putty. There is obviously a chemical difference between the 2 types. We have tried two types of silicone putty and neither gives a great result.

  • Can I use ready-made moulds for resin?
  • Flexible silicone moulds for chocolate and cooking are really good with our resin - make sure they have a shiny interior surface to avoid your finished piece coming out with a cloudy finish. Also, silicone moulds for sugarcraft work well.

  • Can I use plastic moulds for resin?
  • Inflexible plastic moulds are not good because our resin doesn’t shrink at all so it makes it very difficult to get the castings out of the moulds.

  • Do I need to use a release agent such as Badger Balm with moulds?
  • I would not use Badger Balm as a release agent because it will probably affect the surface of the resin casting. Good silicone moulds do not need a release agent. Follow the instructions sent about keeping the mould clean and you won't need a release agent. Keep greasy materials like Vaseline and Badger Balm away from moulds as the resin will set with a dull surface and the mould will be damaged.

  • Why has my casting come out of the mould with a dull surface?
  • If your mould has a shiny surface, your casting will have a shiny surface. If it has a dull surface, your casting will be dull. 
Check out this super helpful guide from Resin Obsession as to how to ensure your next resin casting is a disaster!
 
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EMBEDDING, SOLDERING & GLUING
  • Do I need to prepare paper before embedding it in resin? What about fabric?
  • It is best to print out images and text on good quality photo paper and then seal both sides with hairspray. Make sure that the hairspray does not have a tint to it, which will alter the colour of your picture. Or use PVA glue and make sure it dries thoroughly. Fabric does not need sealing. Both fabric and paper will need to be glued down before resin is put over it otherwise they will float to the surface. Use a 2 part epoxy glue (such as Araldite). Keep superglue away from epoxy resin as they react together and you will have horrible stains on your picture and it will come unstuck!

  • What can I put into resin?
  • You can put almost anything in resin as long as it is dry. Try beads, sequins, dried flowers, fabric, lace, threads, glass, charms, glitter, eye make up powder, accent beads, chatons etc. If you are going to use fabric, choose a printed design. A woven design fabric will soak up the resin and the design will be lost.

  • I want to embed a large object in a block of resin - what is the best way?
  • Let a layer of resin set and then add the object. Build up the resin in layers. When resin and hardener are mixed together there is a heat build up. By mixing in smaller quantities you avoid this heat build up and also by using smaller mix quantities your resin will cure more quickly.

  • Can I solder something after I have put resin in it?
  • No, because resin will burn away with heat. Resin must be the last technique, after all soldering is done.
 
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HEALTH & SAFETY
  • Do I need to wear gloves or a barrier cream when I work with resin?
  • We recommend following proper published safety guidelines for the brand of resin you are working with. Nitrile gloves or a barrier cream are essential to protect your skin. 

  • I'm allergic to lanolin - do you have an suitable barrier cream?
  • Yes, you can buy our Lindesa barrier cream, which doesn't contain Lanolin.

  • Do I need to wear a mask when I work with resin?
  • We recommend following proper published safety guidelines for the brand of resin you are working with. Wear a mask when using large quantities of resin and hardener and protect your eyes from splashing.
  • If you use an abrasive paper or drill resin, wear a respiratory mask to avoid breathing resin dust.

  • Where can I download data sheets (MSDS) for your resins?
  • Please see full Health and Safety guidelines for each resin here. Select the resin you are using and you will then be able to download specific data sheets of information.

  • What do you suggest for cleaning hands and tools?
  • Wipe excess resin off with kitchen towel, then use a baby wipe and finally wash hands with soap and water. It is a good idea to moisturise the hands regularly to avoid stripping the oils off your skin.
 
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CLEANING & CARE OF RESIN JEWELLERY
  • How do I clean unwanted resin out of a piece?
  • If it is a spill on the side of a metal piece, it can be peeled off carefully. If you want to remove all the resin, soak it in paint stripper overnight VERY CAREFULLY. Paint stripper is a dangerous acid- so BEWARE. You can also clean the back of pieces with acetone. You can also soften set resin with a hot air gun and then it can be scraped out of the piece. Make sure you put your piece on something heatproof when you do this.

  • The surface of my resin jewellery has been scratched or become dull - why? How do I avoid this?
  • Make sure that perfume or hairspray are used BEFORE you put resin jewellery on. Chemicals such as hairspray or perfume can attack the finish of resin.
  • To restore the original shine, add another thin layer of clear resin over the top.

  • Why has the clear resin piece I made turned yellow?
  • Possible reasons include:
    • The hardener bottle has not been sealed correctly. Make sure the lid is cleaned after use.
    • The hardener has been kept in daylight. We recommend all hardener is kept in a dark place. 
    • The resin has been cured at too high a temperature. Try and work at 18 degrees C
    • The resin and hardener haven't been measured/weighed out accurately. Follow our guidelines above.
  • The best resin for clear pieces is Resin8 Slowcure Epoxy Resin.

  • What advice should I give people about wearing resin jewellery?
  •  Things that will damage resin are:
    • Hairspray
    • Perfume
    • Nail varnish remover
  • I advise people to put all their creams, makeup etc on first and then the resin jewellery.

  • What do you suggest for cleaning hands and tools?
  • Wipe excess resin off with kitchen towel, then use a baby wipe and finally wash hands with soap and water. It is a good idea to moisturise the hands regularly to avoid stripping the oils off your skin.
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RESIN ART FAQs
  • Are your art resins safe to use without a mask or breathing apparatus?
  • Our Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST are safe to use at ambient temperatures without a mask as they are VOC free, low odour, on-flammable and contain no solvents. However, if you are sanding resin we always advise wearing a mask.

  • What is the coverage rate of your art resins: Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST?
  • Both of these resins will cover 1sqm (1 square metre) per 500g of mixed resin (10.7 foot per 18oz).

  • How much mixed resin will I need?
  • Check out our handy table below for both Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST:
  • Canvas Size (cm) Canvas Size (inches) RESIN QTY per layer
    10x15 4x6 75g (2.6oz)
    20x25 8x10 250g (8oz)
    30x40 12x16 600g (21oz)
    45x60 18x24 1.3kg (45oz)
    50x60 20x24 1.5kg (52oz)
    60x80 24x31 2.4kg (84oz)
    91x120 36x48 5.4kg (190oz)
  • How long will your art resins last in unopened and opened containers?
  • Our resins will last for 12 months.

  • Do I need to wear safety clothing/equipment when working with resin?
  • Whilst both Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST are safe and user-friendly please be aware that are still INDUSTRIAL CHEMICALS and therefore we always advise that you observe good industrial hygiene. Wear gloves, long-sleeved clothing, don't eat/drink/smoke near the resin.

  • How do I measure and mix your resins?
  • The ratio of both Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST is 1:1 by volume. Mix by stirring for 2-3 minutes until the mixture has a uniform texture and consistency. Use a spatula or mixing stick to scrape inside the mixing container whilst stirring to free up any material which could be sticking to the inside walls with static. Once mixed, do not leave the resin in the mixing cup for more than 4-5 minutes as it will produce heat quite quickly in a small volumetric space, which builds heat and cures rapidly.

  • How do air bubbles occur and how do I get rid of them?
  • Both Resin8 1 to 1 Epoxy Resin and totalCAST are de-gassed before they are filled so any air that enters the mixture is caused when hand-stirring. The vortex caused by stirring pulls air into the blend. Once poured into a bezel or onto a canvas, immediately pass hot air from a blowtorch/heatgun/lighter to dissipate bubbles. Both resins also have a special Air Release Agent in their formulations which help to expel micro-bubbles automatically.

  • How do I add colours and unique effects to your art resins?
  • You can use the resi-TINT range of polymer pigments, or Resin8 transparent and opaque pigments, as these will add colour without affecting the resins curing process and end properties. Once you have pigmented the resin why not try resi-BLAST dispersion medium to create bubbles, lacing and other visual effects. You can also colour resin with Mica Powder.

  • If I add more Hardener will the resin cure faster?
  • NO! In fact the resin won't cure at all. The speed of the cure is not regulated by the hardener. It is controlled by the amount of accelerator which is added into both the resin and hardener during the production stage. Do not deviate from the specific mixing ratio! If you really need to accelerate the curing process you can warm the resin and hardener and mix them while warm.

  • Why are the levels of Resin and Hardener different inside the bottles?
  • This is normal. All resin kits are filled by weight but because the density of resin and hardener is different it means they occupy a slightly different volumetric space. So for example, 1kg of resin is around 950ml in volume but 1kg of hardener is 1l in volume; that's why the levels differ marginally. The hardener content will always have a slightly higher level in the bottle as it is less dense than the resin component.
  • If you measure 1:1 by weight then you will finish both components at the same time. If you mix 1:1 by volume it will still work but you may end up with some spare hardener. Either way, a 15% margin of error is built in so that you can make mistakes to this tolerance and the resin will still cure normally.
 

If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to contact us
 
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