Find answers to all your questions below
Our COAT-IT™ and HEAT-RESIST™ resins have been certified by the American Society for Testing and Materials as non-toxic when used as directed (conforms to ASTM-D4236).
We recommend that you wear a respirator and goggles when sanding resin. This is to protect your eyes against splashes and your lungs against breathing in resin dust. Like any plastic dust it can be harmful to your respiratory system. Using WET wet & dry paper is a way of cutting down on resin dust.
You do not need to wear a respirator or goggles when pouring epoxy resin but it is ESSENTIAL that you wear gloves or a suitable barrier cream to protect your hands.
Once the resin mix has cured our resins are safe to wear against the skin.
We do not recommend that children under the age of 16 use epoxy resin. Despite many of our resins being classed as “non-toxic” they are still liquid chemicals and can cause irritation. There is no official test data to prove or disprove effects of pregnant women using epoxy resin to the unborn child, therefore we do not recommend using epoxy resins when pregnant.
Our resins are safe to use around pets, but we do advise extra caution is taken and proper ventilation is adhered to. Any sanding of resin castings should be completed away from pets and children.
However, if you pass a heat gun or torch over the surface of unset resin the bubbles will rise to the top and pop. Using a craft heat gun is recommended for glass-like finishes on resin art. Do not use your heat gun for more than a few seconds and make sure you hold it at least 30cm away from your resin creation. You could also try using a flame to release bubbles but PLEASE BE CAREFUL if you have added colours such as alcohol inks to the resin – these are flammable! Keep a naked flame away from resin in silicone moulds. You will degrade the mould and shorten its lifespan.
Not yet. The reason for this is that we do not feel that a suitable one exists.
All so called 'bio' or 'eco' resins contain the same sort of ingredients as standard epoxy resin. However, in a bio resin some of the normal components are substituted with plant based (renewable) extracts and could be classed as more environmentally friendly than standard epoxy resin. BUT there are two big BUTS…
- The resin may have higher levels of plant based material but the hardener doesn’t (and cannot). Therefore, what’s the use of an eco-resin if you have to use a non-eco hardener? The resin won’t set by itself…
- Changing the chemical composition of resin by adding plant-based materials will have an impact on the quality somewhere. In the case of bio and eco epoxy resins this impact is in the UV stability. Eco and Bio-resins will go yellow and will do so in a much quicker time period than standard epoxy resins. It’s the sacrifice of having an ingredient like hemp oil instead of a hydrocarbon.
Although most of the resins we sell are user-friendly and non-toxic (when used as directed) there are some common-sense safety precautions that we recommend following.
Always read the Technical Data Sheet and Material Safety Data Sheet for the specific resin you’re using.
It goes without saying that you should keep food and drink AWAY from your work area, you should wear an appropriate barrier cream or nitrile gloves, have adequate ventilation in your work room, and, if sanding resin, you should do so with wet ‘wet and dry’ paper, making sure you wear a respirator and safety goggles. Keep your hands away from your face and other parts of your body when working with epoxy resin and always wear an apron and long sleeves.
No. However, you need to be aware that adding anything (mica, pigments, etc) to resin will alter the resins chemical properties. If you add alcohol ink the resin will become flammable (because alcohol can be ignited easily as you probably already know). If you add alcohol ink USE A HEAT GUN to remove bubbles... unless you want to lose your eyebrows...
COAT-IT™ epoxy artwork resin:- this is our most popular resin and is used for coating artwork, resin art with the addition of pigments, making jewellery, geodes and alcohol ink art.
FILL-IT™ epoxy resin:– a crystal clear resin with excellent bubble release used for deep casting and river tables. Takes 3-4 days to cure.
HEAT-RESIST™ epoxy resin:- an epoxy coating/casting resin with excellent surface heat resistance up to 95°C, suitable for coasters, placemats, tabletops, bar counters and kitchen worktops.
DOME-IT™ epoxy resin:- ideal for making jewellery, this thick resin creates a nice dome and is also good when used as an all-purpose epoxy resin (coating, casting, laminating).
We recommend that you should always mix at least 20ml of resin. Small quantities (less than 20ml) will take a LONG time to cure due to their inability to create heat (exotherm). You may well be looking at days for them to cure if you’re measuring out tiny amounts. Always err on the side of measuring more rather than less.
For jewellery making, be prepared and have bezels and moulds lined up so you can work in batches. An easy way to work out how much resin you need for jewellery making is to fill the mould with water and then measure the volume of water. You will need to adjust the amount slightly as you won’t measure every single drop. Dry the mould completely before you add resin.
To make resin pendants, a mix of 20ml resin will make at least one layer in 10 pendants.
For coating pours of 0.5mm thick, use the following coverage guidelines:
10x15cm / 4x6” – 11ml 20x25cm / 8x10” - 36ml 30x40cm / 12x16” - 87ml 50x60cm / 20x24” – 218ml 60x80cm / 24x31” – 337ml
For pigmented artwork on art boards and canvasses, use the following coverage guidelines:
10x15cm / 4x6” – 45ml 20x25cm / 8x10” - 150ml 30x40cm / 12x16” - 360ml 50x60cm / 20x24” – 900ml 60x80cm / 24x31” – 1080ml
We use the phrases 'Part A' and 'Part B'. Part A is RESIN and Part B is HARDENER. Most of our resins and hardeners will have different colour lids and labels to help you identify which is which. Do not mix up the lids… if you put a resin lid on a hardener bottle you may never get it off again!
We recommend measuring by VOLUME for all of our resins except our dome-it resin. To measure by volume, you will need two volumetric/graduated measuring cups (with visible graduations of millilitres) – one for the resin and one for the hardener.
Measure the required amounts of each into individual cups and then pour into a larger cup. DO NOT ALTER THE MIX RATIO. We recommend that you should always mix at least 20ml of resin. Small quantities (less than 20ml) of resin mix will take a LONG time to cure due to their inability to create heat (exotherm), and they can be much more difficult to measure accurately. You may well be looking at days for tiny amounts of resin mix to cure.
Stir the resin and hardener mix SLOWLY for at least 3 minutes, making sure you scrape the sides and corners of the mixing container. If you don’t stir for long enough the mixture may not cure. If you leave any unmixed resin/hardener on the sides of the mixing container the mixture may not cure. Remember, you’re not making a chocolate mousse or whipping up a meringue – stir slowly not vigorously.
You may notice bubbles in the mix when you stir. These can be easily dealt with later using a heat gun or torch.
After 3 minutes the resin mix is ready for use! Do not leave the resin sitting around as it will generate heat. Pour it immediately.
For our DOME-IT™ resin we advise you to measure by WEIGHT and use accurate digital scales. Once measured out, the instructions for stirring are the same as above.
Some of our resins can be measured volumetrically or by weight – please check the specifications for each resin on the specific product page as the ratios may not always be the same!
TOP TIP: To account for the weight of your mixing container, put the empty cup on the scales and then press TARE - this will take the weight back down to 0 and allow you to add the correct amount of resin/hardener.
Don’t be. It’s simple.
1:1 means 1 part resin to 1 part hardener. 100ml resin to 100ml hardener.
2:1 means 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. 200ml resin to 100ml hardener.
NO! In fact, the resin won't cure at all. The speed of the cure is not regulated by the hardener. It is controlled by the amount of accelerator which is added into both the resin and hardener during the production stage. Keep to the specific mixing ratio! Refer to the Technical Data Sheet for the specific resin you are using for exact curing times.
However, if you work in a warm room, or leave the resin in a warm place (i.e. 30 degrees) it will cure more quickly. Warming the resin bottle can also speed the curing process.
Do not warm any resin above 30°C unless instructed to do so.
Temperature plays a big part in the curing of epoxies. The warmer the room is, the more quickly it will 'set' or 'cure'. We recommend that you work in an environment that is at least 18°C so that the chemical reaction can work properly.
Working below 15°C will mean that things will slow down a lot and the cure will happen at a much slower rate. This slowing down of the curing process means that the resin mix is more exposed to humidity, which in turn could result in amine blooming/blushing or sticky patches.
The cure time will also vary depending on the specific type of resin you are using. Check out the Technical Data Sheet for the resin you are using – this will provide you with accurate information on curing times. Some of our resins will be touch dry in a few hours, while others (such as our FILL-IT™ casting resin) will take days.
The best place is somewhere level, dry, warm, at least 18°C, not more than 30°C, and dust free. The ideal temperature would be around 22-25°C.
You could use your airing cupboard, but you need to put your resin pieces in a flat based box with a lid to prevent dust. You might like to try a heated lunchbox if you’re making small pieces of jewellery - they work a treat!
If you are making on a large scale you might like to investigate making your own curing cabinet. We made our cabinet from a metal box covered in insulation board. It has a food warming tray at the bottom, racks to stand things on and a thermostat from a reptile tank (which we bought from a pet shop) to keep the temperature at 30°C. You could make a really simple one from wood, insulation board or polystyrene with old fashioned light bulbs (that warm up) in it. The important thing is to have a level, warm, dust free place for things to cure in.
Cover your piece as soon as possible after pouring to prevent fresh moisture in the air coming into contact with the resin.
Wipe excess resin off tools with kitchen towel, then use a baby wipe. For stubborn resin residue you could use nail varnish remover (acetone) or surgical spirit.
Remove and dispose of gloves and wash hands with soap and water. It is a good idea to moisturise the hands regularly to avoid stripping the oils off your skin.
Cured resin can be easy to peel out of mixing containers so they can be reused. If you’re struggling with this try warming the containers gently on a radiator and then peeling the leftover resin out. Don’t throw it away – use it in your next mixed media creation.
Resin artwork can be dusted with a light lint-free cloth. We do not recommend using any form of spray or polish cleaner as this may cause imperfections in the surface.
Keep all resin art pieces out of direct sunlight and do not use outdoors.
Make sure that perfume is sprayed BEFORE resin jewellery is worn. Likewise, hairspray can affect the shine of epoxy resin so we advise not to wear resin jewellery when doing your hair.
Do not wear resin jewellery in the swimming pool.
Pot life is the amount of working time you have to use the resin once the resin and hardener are mixed together.
Shelf life is the recommended time that you keep containers of resin and hardener once they have been opened.
You can pour resin onto many substrates: canvas, metal, glass, plastic, concrete, polymer clay, board, jewellery bezels… the list is endless.
Surfaces need to be grease free before applying resin to make sure it grips. We suggest you use an abrasive on things like polymer clay to give a 'key' for the resin to grip. Glass should be cleaned with an abrasive bathroom cleaner, rinsed and dried, with a soft lint free cloth, before resin is put on it.
- If you’re using canvas don’t forget to support it underneath to prevent sag.
- If you’re using MDF or Birch ply you can resin straight on, or use Gesso as a base.
- Wood needs to be absolutely bone dry as there is a danger that it might absorb moisture
You can also use resin on/over the following:
- Oil paintings – provided they are completely dry
- Photographs – these will need to be sealed first with our seal-it product
- Watercolour paintings
- Paper – the paper should be good quality, otherwise the resin might soak in, and the surface should be sealed before pouring
- Organic materials such as leaves – apply in thin layers and make sure the item is dry
- Polymer clay – resin can strengthen polymer clay
- Pen blanks – our fill-it epoxy resin resin is ideal for this
You can put almost anything in resin as long as it is completely dry. Try beads, sequins, dried flowers, fabric, lace, leaves, threads, glass, charms, glitter, accent beads and even breast-milk (see more on that below)!
If you are going to use fabric, choose a printed design. A woven design fabric will soak up the resin and the design will be lost. Fabric doesn’t need sealing although it is a good idea to coat it in PVA glue to protect it from fraying, and it will be easier to cut to shape.
If you want to embed printed things, it is best to print on good quality photo paper and then seal both sides with PVA glue and mak sure it dries thoroughly
Both fabric and paper will need to be glued down before resin is put over them otherwise they will float to the surface. Use a 2 part epoxy glue (such as Araldite). Keep superglue away from epoxy resin as they react together, and you will have horrible stains on your picture and it will come unstuck!
How to add breast milk to resin jewellery is a closely guarded secret. You cannot put a liquid like breast milk, that is mostly water, into resin because the resin will not set, and the milk will deteriorate. So, there is a secret process to turn the milk into a powder. We haven’t experimented and do not know how this is done.
You can use flowers successfully in epoxy resin but they do need to be dried thoroughly first. They don’t need to be sealed – just sandwich them between layers of resin. Put a layer in a mould, allow it to set or partially set and then put a second layer of resin in and add the flowers. When the second layer is set or partially set, add a final layer. This means the flowers are encased and will not sink or float.
Adding solvents to resin, in the form of alcohol ink or alcohol spray, will affect the chemical properties of epoxy resin and will make the resin flammable.
No! We recommend that different brands of resin are kept separate when making resin mixes. Each resin and hardener has its own chemical composition. However, once an initial layer of resin mix has cured you can then add a layer of a different brand of resin. For example, you can use a clear layer of our heat-resistant resin as a top coaster layer, wait for it to set and then use coat-it epoxy resin with colour for the base layer.
You can use any non-water based resin pigments we sell at Resin8.
Can’t find the colour you like? All of our colour pigments and powders can be mixed together, a bit like paint, to achieve different shades and tones.
You do need to be aware however that adding anything (mica, pigments, etc) to resin will alter the resins chemical properties. If you add alcohol ink, the resin will become flammable (because alcohol can be easily ignited as you probably already know) so USE A HEAT GUN to remove bubbles... unless you want to lose your eyebrows...
Lacing and cells are achieved in a number of different ways.
Our white and ivory opaque pigments form cells and lacing effects by themselves when mixed with resin. Other colours can be mixed with resin, used over partially cured coloured resin and blasted with a heat-gun on its lowest setting to create lacing without the need for an additive.
You can add 1-2 drops of our cell-crea8or to a 20ml mixed pot of coloured resin and stir into the resin mix. If you are using large quantities, add a bit more. Please be aware that adding anything to epoxy resin may speed up any yellowing process that may occur.
Gently rub the surface of your resin with WET 'wet and dry' paper. This will give you a frosted sea glass effect. Alternatively, use a matt finish silicone mould.
It is possible to use coat-it epoxy resin for this if you let the resin and hardener mix stand for 10 minutes or so to thicken up, once you have mixed them thoroughly. Another top tip for using our coat-it epoxy resin on a domed surface is to keep the resin cool first - that way it will be thicker to use. The other resins will 'slide' off a curved surface.
The best way to apply resin to a curved or 3D surface is by brush or foam pad. You will probably need to work in layers, and may need to wait for a side to cure before moving onto another side.
All of our resins have the very best quality raw materials and inbuilt special light (UV) stabilisers to prevent premature yellowing. However, all resins will yellow to varying degrees over time as resins are essentially plastics.
The best resin to use to maintain good clarity over time is fill-it resin. Fill-it has been specifically designed to stay as clear as possible for as long as possible. Coat-it epoxy resin has very good non-yellowing properties.
A tip to brighten up resin that has gone yellow in the container (i.e. before use) is to add a drop of transparent blue pigment - this will brighten up the resin again.
Remember that adding anything to epoxy resin will alter the chemical properties. Silicone is a case in point. Adding liquid silicone may mean your resin artwork will yellow more quickly.
Let a layer of resin set and then add the object. Build up the resin in layers (this is called laminating). When resin and hardener are mixed together there is a heat build-up (exotherm). By mixing in smaller quantities you avoid this heat build-up.
Our fill-it epoxy resin has the least exotherm and can be poured 12 litres at a time, up to a depth of 50mm. The thicker the layer you pour, the longer the cure time.
No! There is no such thing as a food-safe epoxy resin in the UK, despite what other people say. And bear in mind the UK authorities have stricter criteria for testing than in the States, so what may be classed as food-safe in America is not food-safe in the UK.
Our coat-it epoxy resin and heat-resistant epoxy resins are safe for 'incidental' food contact where there is no cutting involved or any direct mouth contact. So, a chopping board handle would be fine, but covering the entire chopping board would not. Coating a tiered cake stand would be OK but covering a plate would not. The item you’re making must never be used as a cutting surface or put in the mouth (e.g. a glass).
The simple truth is to ask the manufacturer… 'would you put something made/coated with fully cured epoxy resin in your mouth, or any other orifice for that matter'? We guarantee you the answer will always be a resounding NO.
We recommend using our very own Resin Dam Tape! on the back of see-through pieces as this will peel off easily with very little residue. Normal clear packing tape will give your resin pieces a dull surface, but you can bring them up to a shine again with another thin layer of resin.
No, because resin will burn away with heat. Resin must be the last technique, after all soldering is done.
Our resins aren't designed to be used outside.
Yes, but only if you use our heat-resistant resin. This specific resin has a high heat-tolerance which means that it can take the heat of a hot cup of coffee without leaving a mark.
However, this resin takes 14-28 days to reach full cure, so be sure to leave your coaster for a full 28 days before testing it with a hot drink.
Other alternatives are to use our heat-resistant resin as the top layer (the first layer you pour into a mould and the layer that the cup will sit on), wait for that to cure and then use coat-it epoxy resin to fill the bottom of the coaster.
Or you could coat the back of an acrylic slice with resin so that a hot cup is sitting on acrylic rather than resin.
Volatile Organic Compounds (or VOCs as they are commonly referred to) are organic chemicals that have high vapour pressure at room temperature (for example, Carbon Monoxide, Carbon Dioxide, etc). The very meaning, in relation to epoxy resin, refers to whether the resin releases organic compounds at ambient room temperature, which it doesn’t. All artwork resins on the market in the UK are VOC free.
It is only at high temperatures (usually 180°C to 250°C) that resin is heated above its thermal decomposition limit. At this stage the resin starts to break down in chemical structure and VOCs are released. As with any liquid, the more heat you apply, the more it turns from liquid to vapour.
The smell is usually a good indicator of how easily a liquid is giving off vapours. At ambient room temperature and under normal use the vapour release would be extremely low.
Empty them as much as possible and take them to a local recycling centre. They will usually have a special waste collection point that deals with hazardous liquids like paints.
Flexible silicone moulds for chocolate and cooking are really good with our resins - make sure they have a shiny interior surface to avoid your finished piece coming out with a cloudy finish. Some silicone moulds for sugarcraft work well.
Inflexible plastic moulds are not good because many epoxy resins don’t shrink back, so it makes it very difficult to get the castings out of the moulds. Also, plastic moulds may rip or warp during de-moulding. Silicone moulds are much better for use with epoxy resin as they are flexible, meaning you can peel the mould away from the resin, making demoulding much easier.
We do not use a release agent with the moulds that we sell - good silicone moulds do not need one. Keep your silicone mould clean. Washing it occasionally in soapy water and making sure it's dry will also mean that you shouldn’t need a release agent. Keep greasy materials like Vaseline and Badger Balm away from moulds as the resin will set with a dull surface and the mould will be damaged.
If you are using a plastic mould you will need a mould release spray but please bear in mind that the use of such spray may turn the interior of the mould cloudy.
If your mould has a shiny surface, your casting will have a shiny surface. If it has a dull surface, your casting will be dull. SHINY MOULD = SHINY RESIN!
To make a dull resin surface shiny again, sand it back using our Rejuven8 collection and then add another layer of clear resin (using a paintbrush) to the surface.
However, you might be after a frosted, dull finish, in which case a matt finish mould is perfect for you.
The short answer is YES you can. You must bear in mind though that silicone putty is not as flexible as an addition-cure silicone so will not last as long, or be as strong.
By using our mould-it silicone mould making material! Read more about this amazing silicone in our tools category.
The resin has got too cold and has crystallised (it crystallises below 7°C).
You need to put the container somewhere warm - on top of a radiator, in a jug of hot water, or in an airing cupboard. If the resin is in a plastic container, stand it in some recently boiled water for 10 minutes and wipe the resin container completely dry when the resin has warmed up. Then give the container a good shake to mix it all up. Be aware that warming resin will shorten the working time.
We advise keeping containers of resin in a place which is above 10°C on a permanent basis (i.e. not in the garden shed!).
In 100% of cases this will be due to a mistake when measuring, mixing or curing the resin.
You may not have measured out the resin to the hardener accurately enough. Make sure you have followed the measuring ratios as specified on the product page.
You may have stirred too quickly or not for long enough.
It may be too cold for the resin to start curing correctly – the room in which you are working should be at least 18°C.
Try putting your resin work somewhere warm and dry to cure (e.g. airing cupboard, leaving the heater on in the workshop).
Try pouring more resin mix on top, after removing any excess sticky resin as best you can.
Coat the resin with another thin layer of resin and the thumbprint will disappear. Avoid this in future by having a tester drop of resin on a piece of masking tape next to the piece you are making. Test this with your thumbnail instead of ruining the finished piece!
There should never be 'sticky' or 'tacky' patches in properly measured and mixed resin. In 100% of cases it will be user error due to not mixing thoroughly or incorrect measuring.
If you are making jewellery, chances are you will need to start from scratch. If you’re pouring resin onto artwork you might be able to scrape it off and re-pour a new mix. Wipe the surface before re-pouring.
This is known as “amine blooming” or an “amine blush”. It is due to moisture in the air coming into contact with the surface of your resin piece.
To remove the greasiness, wash the surface of the resin with warm soapy water (amines are soluble) and then use Rejuven8 shine enhancer spray. In the worst cases you may need to sand back the surface of the resin and re-pour another layer.
Make sure that perfume or hairspray are used BEFORE you put resin jewellery on. Chemicals such as hairspray or perfume can attack the finish of resin.
To restore the original shine, buff with Rejuven8 scratch remover and polishing cloth. For heavy scratches you may need to add another thin layer of clear resin over the top.
All of our resins have built-in bubble release properties, but if you have ‘whipped up’ the resin when stirring you will have introduced a lot of air into the mix. Bubbles will start to dissipate by themselves approximately an hour or so after pouring.
However, if you pass a heat gun or torch over the surface of unset resin, the bubbles will rise to the top and pop. Using a craft heat gun is recommended for glass-like finishes on resin art. Do not use your heat gun for more than a few seconds.
You could also try using a flame to release bubbles but PLEASE BE CAREFUL if you have added colours such as alcohol inks to the resin – these are flammable! Do not use a naked flame on resin in silicone moulds. You will degrade the mould and shorten its lifespan.
If your resin artwork has bubbles in after it has cured, sand it back with wet 'wet and dry' paper, remove any dust, clean the surface with a damp piece of kitchen roll and re-pour.
TOP TIP: Warm the resin before you use it to accelerate the bubble-release mechanism! (although don’t warm doming resin as this is designed to be used at UK room temperature).
Resin needs to be thick in order to dome effectively. The warmer it is, the less viscous (thick) it will be and the more difficult it will be to create a dome. We suggest using our dome-it epoxy resin as it is designed for doming jewellery and works best at UK room temperature.
Resin and hardener have different densities and levels of viscosity (thickness). This means that one component is usually heavier than the other.
All resin kits are filled by weight but, because the density of resin and hardener is different, it means they occupy a slightly different volumetric space. So, for example, 1kg of resin is around 950ml in volume but 1kg of hardener is 1l in volume; that's why the levels differ marginally. The hardener content will always have a slightly higher level in the bottle as it is less dense than the resin component.
If you measure 1:1 by weight, then you will finish both components at the same time. If you mix 1:1 by volume it will still work, but you may end up with some spare hardener. Either way, a 15% margin of error is built in so that you can make mistakes to this tolerance and the resin will still cure normally.
You’ve used too much alcohol ink, or you haven’t measured and mixed the resin and hardener correctly.
Most often this is to do with not knowing when to stop and adding too many drops of alcohol ink to liquid resin. Remember, adding ANYTHING to epoxy resin will alter the chemical composition of the product and affect the cure.
To rectify this, try adding another layer of resin to the sticky side and leaving in a warm room. If this still does not help, you may have to start from scratch.
If your mould has a shiny surface, your casting will have a shiny surface. If the mould has a dull surface, your casting will be dull. You can add another layer of clear resin (using a paintbrush) to the surface, or trying rubbing with a polish like our rejuven8 paste.
You have mixed too much in one go.
Most epoxy resins produce exotherm (i.e. they give off heat) when mixed with their respective hardeners. This is why it is important to only mix the amount you need.
If you need 10 litres of resin mix for your project, we advise you to mix and pour in layers (laminate), leaving time between each layer (for artwork resins you can leave around 4-5 hours between layers and for deep casting resins leave around 10-12 hours). Our fill-it epoxy resin is best for deep castings and can be poured up to 12 litres in one go (but only to a depth of 50mm). Remember that the partially cured resin should be sanded before a new layer is applied, and make sure you wear a respirator when sanding.
However, that doesn’t mean that at some point in the distant past some of the ingredients within certain products weren’t tested on animals for UK health & safety legislation.
For example, our DOME-IT™ resin is not tested on animals, however the MSDS (materials safety data sheet) provides information about animal tests that were carried out in the 1960s and 1970s. For legal reasons, this still has to be mentioned despite the fact that nowadays these ingredients are not tested on animals. This is the same for our FILL-IT™ epoxy resin. Our COAT-IT™ epoxy resin and HEAT-RESIST™ resin are not and have never been tested on animals.
The mica powder supplier we use is not just a supplier of mica but also a manufacturer and over 70% of the colours that we stock are manufactured by them, right here in the EU. They obviously do not use child labour, their youngest member of staff in the company is 23 :-).
The remaining coloured mica powders come directly from various manufacturers who are all specialists in their own fields. These well known global companies do not use child labour and they also strive to offer excellent working conditions in their manufacturing facilities for all their employees.
Due to the exploitation of children in the mines of India we do not purchase any mica products at all from India.
Our colour pigments are manufactured in the UK and our resins are manufactured in the UK and South Africa by a reputable company.
So please don't worry, you are in good hands and we have a zero tolerance level towards exploitation of children, animals or people.
We hereby certify the following:
None of our mica powders have been mined or manufactured using child labour.
None of our mica powders have been tested on animals.
None of our mica powders come from India.
None of our mica powders have been irradiated.
All of our mica powders are non GMO.
Once you have added the required items to your cart, proceed through checkout and you will see a range of delivery options and prices for you to choose from. If you have experienced any problems receiving parcels from the UK before, we recommend that you choose a tracked and signed option.
Yes, but I can buy these from your competitors and from eBay…
We know, but we abide by the rules and hope you understand. We value our business too much to take the risk of having our ability to ship in the UK and abroad revoked due to breaking the law. Our competitors appear to be less concerned about this.
For international orders transit times vary depending on the delivery method chosen. At checkout you will see a range of delivery options and transit times will be visible too.
We do not consider parcels lost until the carrier has confirmed they have been lost. Royal Mail suggests that your parcel is lost if it hasn’t arrived in 10 working days (UK) or 25 working days after the due date (international).
If you made an error on your delivery address and we receive the shipment back, we reserve the right to charge postage again, or to refund the order minus postage.
If leaving a message on our phone, please make sure you leave your number loudly and clearly. We have had many instances of people not leaving their number (our phone doesn’t store your number) or rushing through it so quickly it’s impossible for us to catch it. We will ALWAYS return your call if we have your number.
We love to promote the use of epoxy resin to schools, colleges & universities and are proud to supply some of the country's leading educational establishments with resin for their art & design classes. Please get in touch with us to discuss in more detail.
If you are one of our customers who teach their own classes then we can provide you with a teaching discount, and your students with a one-off discount to spend on our website. Please get in touch with our team to discuss this in more detail. Teaching discounts are only valid when items are purchased in multiples and there is a minimum spend of £150. br>